(price $38.99)

As one rounds past the turnips and zeroes in on a serving of dark meat, the appeal of a more full-flavored wine sets the palate atwitter. The 2007 vintage in Piedmont is showing wonderfully right now and this offering from Luigi Pira is a beauty. Its garnet color shows superb clarity, the nose is very heady with aromatics of black fruits, and in the mouth it is well balanced with nuances of mocha, black cherry, and leather. Serving the wine at meal's end with an aged cheese is also a very intriguing option.